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Monday 19 August 2013

Tuktu Hunt (Caribou) With Shon and Ben

So, I don't really know where to begin this post.  I have so much to say about this weekend.  It's Sunday night, and I am tired...but I need to write about the amazing weekend! 

I met a guy here (Shon), who is an really nice guy... he mentioned that he wanted to go out caribou hunting this past weekend, and if we wanted to come we could tag along.  So... of course we went!  Well, let me tell you it was out of this world!  By FAR the best day I have had here!  We (Morteza and I) woke up, and got all of our stuff packed and on the quad.  We went and met Shon at the Co-op.  Grabbed our snacks and shotgun shells and we were off for an adventure.  The plan was to go out for the day with Shon and Ben.  They would show us how its done. Well did they ever...then we would camp over night at Aquk.  A river system that Andrew (one our teacher friends) has a cabin at.  We left town around 10:00.  By 11:00 we were staring at our first Caribou...

By 11:15, Shon has shot, gutted, cleaned and quartered this said Caribou...

and by 11:20 we were on the move again.  We went pretty far up... about 40km, and they decided that we would go to the big esker for lunch.  Well when we got there, it just so happened that there was another Caribou standing on the other side.  Again, Shon shot, cleaned and cut up this caribou in record time.  Seriously less than 15 minutes from shots fired to caribou being completely cleaned and packed up on his quad. 

Somewhere in this day, we stopped to have lunch... They pulled out a bag, and asked "have you ever eaten Narwhal?"  Of course we answered "nope"... and then proceeded to snack on narwhal!  What a delish treat! 

In total, we got 3 caribou.  We saw about 15... and could have probably shot 8 or 9.  But I found it really cool how they were so respectful of the animals.  I honestly have no words that can possibly describe the way I felt when I watched them clean the caribou.  I was in complete awe. 

Anyways, after the second caribou had been cleaned and packed on the quad, Morteza made a "small" fire and cooked up the caribou heart and liver. 

We munched on this for an afternoon snack.  Not for me...but I at least tried it!  I said small in quotations because it was hilarious... he literally only put about two handfuls of moss and lichen on the ground, and lit it on fire... but the wind was pretty bad and before you knew it... we were actually worried that the whole side of the hill would ignite!  Ben came to the rescue and showed him a few tricks to keep the fire surrounded by rock so that the wind couldn't spread the fire so much!  They knew so many little tricks that were so simple, tricks that would have made my life camping much easier. 

When we finished our afternoon caribou organ snack... and had a little time to sit back and relax...while they decided whether we were going to continue or head back...

They chose to see what was over the next esker (there are tons of eskers that were left by the glaciers here), annnnd... guess what was over the next one?  Yep... if you said, "another caribou" you are right... actually there were two. 

They weren't together, and both were pretty far away... but as we started talking...one started coming closer.  Ben decided that it was his turn, and with precision... he took it down.  Then he skinned, and quartered it. He was just as skilled with a knife as Shon (the knives they use are just like a pocket knife! I don't know how they do it!) 

Then we were back on the quads and heading back to the cabin.  Morteza and I were staying the night at our friend (another teacher here, Andrew's Cabin).  On our way back the guys chose to take another way... a way with no path... seriously.  We drove for about 2 hours over rocks... the worst terrain you could imagine.  My shoulders, traps and biceps are still killing from this ride.  What a day.

Once the guys dropped us off at the cabin, they headed home.  Morteza and I used our new found knowledge to build a small fire (this time it was small) and cooked one of the caribou legs that the guys had kindly given us for dinner.  We munched on that and hung out to watch the stars come out.  It was seriously one of the most amazing days I have ever had. 

Friday 16 August 2013

Caribou (tuktu) Hunt tomorrow...

Okay, so its late and I can't sleep!  I am really excited for tomorrow!  I met a guy here that is very respected as a hunter and seems to be the perfect guy to buddy up with on the land... his name is Shon, and he is taking me and Morteza out on the land tomorrow.  We are going to go about 2-2.5 hours by ATV and are going to do a full day of Caribou hunting!  I am pumped!!  We are going to camp overnight at one of our teacher friends cabins and do some arctic char fishing at the river as well!  Wish me luck!!

Wednesday 14 August 2013

Whale Cove Nunavut: An Inside Look from a Qabluna

So, recently, I... moved to Nunavut... more specifically... a very traditional, extremely cultural and most importantly a welcoming community named Whale Cove, Nunavut (Tikiraqjuaq in Inuktitut).  The people here (99% Inuit) all speak Inuktitut as their first language and English as their second.  They are extremely in touch with their culture and traditions, they hunt nearly everything that breathes, but they do it in a very respectful way.  They hunt to survive.  They definitely do not hunt or fish for that matter for the sport of it.  This is a way of life for them, and the best hunters seem to be very respected by all in the community (probably because these guys bring home the food!)

I decided to give you a little background on the area of Whale Cove, mostly because I have not done so yet and I feel that it is pretty important to know who the people are, what they are about and what the area is like if you are going to be following me and my adventures through the words of this blog.

Inuktitut is unlike any language I have ever heard spoken.  It has many different sounds that I am trying to mimic but have definitely failed to do so (so far).  A few of the Inuit women that work at the school are desperately trying to help me in my attempt to learn at least a few sentences in their language and I was told today that the "k" sound that they make comes from the bottom of their throat.  My "k" sound is a sound that comes from my tongue.  I don't even know what this means!  This may be a long attempt to master their language and I already know there is a good chance it will end in failure, but I am willing to keep trying!!  If nothing else, it shows that I am interested in their language and culture, and that I am willing to try!  The language itself has many "k", "Q", and "ick" sounds... well much more than English.  "Qablunas" is a word I learned very quickly, as far as I know it means "White people", but it could just mean "outsider"... either way... I am definitely a "qabluna"  This isn't a bad thing, like its not a derogatory word at all, just the way it is.  There are Inuks and there are qablunas. 

Lets see, what else can I tell you about with regards to Whale Cove?  Oh... yea, sports here are a basic religion.  The kids here are insanely athletic.  I have a gym class 3 times a week, and right now we are doing basketball.  I have three students that would definitely standout on any sr. highschoool basketball team that I have seen in Greenstone.  Sorry guys!  But it's true.  They have a natural ability that is remarkable.  They all try very hard and put an honest effort into what ever it is that they are playing or doing for that matter... I am excited to play hockey with them as I think they are going to make me look like a horrible hockey player!  ;)  The entire community comes together for sporting events.  Anytime the arena is open for soccer games, or the gym is open for a floor hockey game...it isn't long before the place is packed!  I really like that about here.

One thing that I was thinking about this week was how I could make this blog more interesting and also give you a look into the people and their way of life here.  I was sitting at the lookout (a place that I stop and take pictures from regularly on my way to the lake I've been fishing at) and I couldn't help but think about how crazy it is to think that just 55 years ago Whale Cove (the village, and homes) didn't exist.  The people before this time, were true nomads of the North.  They roamed the land freely, in small families hunting the caribou, muskox, bears, whales, seals and whatever else they could find.  They traveled through unbelievable terrain with nothing other than dogsled teams.  They only had whale and fish oils as a source of fuel.  They used every piece of the animals that they hunted; the meat was eaten mostly raw as there was no source of fuel to cook it; the bones were used for frames, sleds and anything structural that we would use wood for; the furs were used for clothing and  warmth; Everything was used.  This is something that they have kept... they do not waste anything here! Anyways, I'm getting off track.  There are people in this community that once lived this way. There are elders that were born on the land, with no single "permanent" residence, with no calendars and with the most amazing and difficult lifestyle I can imagine!  The woman that I gave my fish to a few days ago, she is the oldest person in Whale Cove.  She is a 92 year old woman that was born in the arctic tundra.  I find this so interesting, not only because she has been through so much in such a short time, but also because of the differences that the Inuit generations have.  Many of my students have facebook, they communicate on their computers and listen to Eminem on their Ipods.  Many of their grand parents and great grand parents were born in such a different world, with no actual way of knowing their birthday.  I was told the other day that it isn't uncommon for an elder to have the birthday of January 1, because they just didn't know the "day" that they were born.  Sometimes they might not even know the year. 

I have only been here for 2 weeks now, but I have already grown a huge level of respect for all the people that call Whale Cove "home".  This is a very unique place, with very harsh conditions, and for these people here... they wouldn't have it any other way.  There is definitely something to be said for that. 

As for me, I am making friends as most of you expected... I am not having much difficulty getting to know the town and I am beginning to feel much more comfortable.  I am going on a caribou hunt hopefully this weekend (I can't shoot anything for a few months as the Nunavut laws restrict that) but I am going along to see how it is done!  I cant wait for this.  I have a great class, and they are coming around and have taken interest in me, my life in Ontario and my stories that I have... things are good.  Looking forward to a few things... our whole school will soon be invited to a beluga hunt, preparation and feast! 

I hope you all are enjoying the posts!  Ill keep writing if you keep reading! 

until next time...Andy




Thursday 8 August 2013

Do as the Romans Do

August 8th 2013
 
So, I know... I know... Dad told me today that I need to write more often. Seriously, I have a bunch of stories that I know I am now going to leave out because I haven't been writing this enough. I am already slacking! Haha. I am now exactly 9 days into my Nunavut adventure... and I have so much to share. This is more of an experience than I can even begin to explain. Everyday atleast 10 things happen that are worthy of their own blog entry. So I will start where I left off from and be prepared... this may be a long one. ;)

I have had my class for almost the full week now, and they are definitely a challenge! Haha the honeymoon didnt last long. But It is very easy to see the good in every one of these students. They are all genuinely kind people, curious people and most importantly happy people. They are by far the happiest people I have seen. It makes you wonder what people are missing everywhere else. These people here see a summer season that seriously lasts less than a month, a winter season that lasts more than eight; they endure the harshest, coldest, and craziest weather and they definitely depend on their surroundings (caribou and char mostly) to survive. How is it that they are the happiest people? Like I said... it definitely makes you wonder.
So, I have been going on little (polar bear aware) excursions whenever I get the chance. Yesterday I went on a run on the rocks, (by the ocean) I took a million pictures...ill add a few at the bottom of this, but I couldnt get over how gorgeous the run was. I kept stopping to take pictures (and a breath haha). There were places along that run that would and should be on postcards. The waves were really big and the tide was coming in which made for unreal pictures. I saw a million SikSiks, (thats a ground squirrel in Inuktitut). But these aren't normal squirrels. These things are Mutant Arctic squirrels on multiple cycles of steroids. They look like little raccoons almost.
I have also, recently, been thinking about making a purchase... An ATV. It isn't necessary, but it will definitely be a very welcome addition. So today, after school... I bought a Polaris 500. Its just a normal 4 wheeler, but around here it will act as a mode of transportation every weekend to different lakes, fishing holes, caribou hunting grounds and also around town. It will be nice to have for sure. Without it, it is very hard to get out on the land and do much of anything. So... after I bought it... I went on a trip out to the airport just to see how it goes... Its nice. Andy likes it for sure.
My mom and dad have sent up a shotgun for me to use... I now cant wait for it to get here... then i'll be able to go camping, and really enjoy the land, scenery and experience.

Okay, so there are a few things I promised myself when I came up here.

#1. I will save as much money as possible. (i know I just bought a 4 wheeler... how is that saving money?? It's not... but it is allowing me to do what I came up here to do the most... It is allowing me to get out and experience everything there is to experience).

#2. If someone hands me anything and offers it to me to eat... I will eat it without any questions asked. (well today... one of my students came to me after lunch. She said that she had something for me to try. I was really busy trying to figure out what I was going to do for math class “still very new to me this math class thing”, so I told her that I would try it at recess... she simple refused that answer because as she said it... “It is going to melt...you have to eat it now!!” Well, at this point I was curious what it was.. and remembering #2, I decided to just eat it. So I reached into the bag and pulled out a piece of... wait for it... raw frozen caribou. Yep. Raw caribou. They call it Tuktu. It wasn't that bad! Well, picture just eating a slice of a steak straight out of the freezer. ;) not for everyone, but some places (in France) they classify it a delicacy!

I have created a slideshow using my phone, I have attached it along with some pictures. Tell me what you guys want to know about, so I can try to aim to please with this blog! It gives me ideas to write about too!

I miss you guys tons!

Till next time!









Sunday 4 August 2013

My first few days here.

Thursday, August 1, 2013

I don't really know where to start. Tomorrow is my first day at the school (kids start next week) and I'm actually a little nervous!  It's been a long time since I've felt butterflies... But I feel them. 

I have been welcomed into the community of whale cove with outstretched arms wide open.  This may be the most friendly place I have ever had the opportunity to be a part of. My roommates are incredible. Suzanne has been here for a year now (teaching her 2nd year) and is an unbelievable help in getting to know the "ins and outs Nunavut style", she gave me a tour of the community, visited a few people, met many of the students at our school and helped me get my fishing licence.  I am now a legal fisherman of the territory of Nunavut! 

I met a few of the RCMP who were kind enough to give me a ride from the airport to my new home. And also met a few friendly faces around town. The conservation officer (Steve) is super awesome... Loves to fish and hunt and definitely seems like a well of knowledge that I will continually bother with questions about everything. 

Honestly, I am a little overwhelmed with the kindness of everyone. It's amazing. Today (my first day here) 5 of our students came with Morteza and I out for a quick fishing adventure. They are the happiest kids!  I caught my first fish! It was a Ouga fish (cod).
One of the students said that her grandmother loves Ouga fish, so I gave it to bring to her granny. :)

I've been told that the polar bears are very close to town an are extremely dangerous (obviously) which really sucks actually because we have been told that going to the more inland lakes (where the better fishing is) is too dangerous right now because the polar bears are hungry!  ;)

Well tomorrow is coming quick, going to get some shut eye before the sun peaks through my window. I definitely need curtains!